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Thinking it’s my ice maker but just getting a second opinion. My ice maker stopped making ice. I pulled it out and there was frozen ice cube still in the mold. I melted them out and waited to see if it would start working again, and it didn’t even dump water into the tray. The fridge and freezer are both at the right temperature, we change the water filter as soon as the light comes on every six months. What are you thoughts? thank you.
Cause 1 Freezer Temperature is Above 10 Degrees F (-12C) If the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12C), the ice maker will not produce ice cubes efficiently. The freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15C) for the ice maker to work properly. If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely failed. Cause 2 Water Inlet Valve The water inlet valve is an electrically-controlled valve that opens to supply water to the dispenser and ice maker. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if it has insufficient pressure, it won’t allow water to flow through. As a result, the ice maker won’t make ice. The valve requires at least 20 psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to check for power to the water inlet valve. If the water inlet valve has sufficient pressure and is getting power, but the ice maker won’t fill with water to make ice, replace the water inlet valve. Cause 3 Ice Maker Assembly One component of the ice maker assembly might be defective. Since many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly. Before replacing the ice maker assembly, check the water inlet valve, water line, and fan. If none of these parts are at fault, and the freezer temperature is at least 15 degrees Fahrenheit, replace the ice maker assembly. UPDATE 3/2/19 For those that have less common problems here’s the complete list Cause 4 Icemaker Module The icemaker module is equipped with a motor that cycles the ice ejector arms or turns a tray to eject the cubes into the ice bucket. When the thermostat or sensor on the icemaker tray reaches about 15 degrees Fahrenheit, the motor cycles to release the ice cubes. At the end of the cycle, the icemaker module sends power to the water inlet valve to refill the tray with water. If the icemaker module is defective, the ice maker won’t make or dispense ice. First, depending on your model, make sure that the on/off switch is in the on position or the bail arm is in the down position. If the icemaker module has ejector blades, check to ensure that ice cubes are not stuck in the blades. There are usually test points in the module that a technician can use to further diagnose problems with the module. Cause 5 Low Water Pressure from House Supply The home may have insufficient water pressure. The water inlet valve supplies water to the ice and water dispenser. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to function properly. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi. Cause 6 Door Switch The door switch turns off the ice and water dispenser when the refrigerator door is open. If the door switch fails, the dispenser will not turn on. To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it. Cause 7 Ice Level Control Board Some refrigerators use an infrared beam to sense the level of ice in the ice bucket. When the ice level reaches the top of the bucket, it interrupts the infrared beam. The control board then shuts off the ice maker. When the ice level drops below the beam, the control board signals the ice maker to make more ice. If the ice level control board fails, the ice maker will stop making ice. Ensure that the ice level control board is getting power. If the ice level control board is getting power, but the ice maker won’t work, replace the ice level control board. Cause 8 Water Filter A clogged water filter can restrict the flow of water to the dispenser and prevent the ice maker from working properly. The water filter should be replaced about every six months to maintain proper water flow and ensure water quality. Cause 9 Icemaker Mold Thermostat The icemaker mold thermostat monitors the temperature of the ice mold (ice tray). Once the mold reaches the proper temperature, the icemaker ejects the ice cubes and refills the ice mold with water. If the mold thermostat is defective, the ice maker will stop making ice. To determine if the thermostat is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the mold thermostat does not have continuity, replace it. (Note: If the ice maker is not cold enough, the mold thermostat contacts will open. If the thermostat contacts are open, the ice maker will not make ice. The ice maker temperature must generally be lower than 20 degrees Fahrenheit for the thermostat contacts to close.) Cause 10 Icemaker Switch The ice maker switch might be defective. It is also possible that the icemaker switch got turned off by accident. Check the switch to ensure that it is turned on. If the icemaker switch is turned on, but the ice maker still isn’t working, use a multimeter to test the switch for continuity. If the icemaker switch does not have continuity, replace it. You can find a few more things to try on the Frigidaire ice maker not working guide—even though it’s for Frigidaires, a lot of the same solutions apply.
For whirlpool and other brands it makes. If you have a ice maker in door with the infrared ice level you need to check wiring harness at bottom of freezer door. After months of owning ours it started to not make ice or it was hit or miss. 3 ice makers and heavy web searching later over couple years, I found my solution. The wiring harness that comes out of freezer door has major flaw. It rubs or is under to much tension. It is the large one in plastic loom. I found my black wire and green wire was broken in half. Had to make a patch to reconnect wires and now I’m making ice.
Check for cut wire at the bottom of the door. Ice tray wouldn’t turn. Connected cut wire back and everything works again
There are too many questions on this guestion to address each one. If you post your question as a new question you’ll have an answer for your individual problem. Here are some fix’s for several situations. Ice maker quit after replacing water filter. Flush the air out of the water lines by letting the water dispenser on the door run about a gallon or more water through it. It’s boring, but air can take as long as10-15 min to get flushed out. I’ve seen many brand new filters fail. Is the ice maker ON? This is a very common problem. Children might play with the display and turn it off. Some have a on/off switch on the I/M, on the display, on the wall in freezer etc. It makes one tray and stops when reset button is pushed. Pushing the reset button on the I/M bypasses the heater thermostat. It will dump the ice, fill than freeze but never drop the new ice. This is due to a bad heater thermostat. Most technicians replace the I/M instead of replacing the tstat. Replacing the tstat is time consuming and the labor cost is high. It’s more cost efficient to have a new I/M. You can replace the tstat if you have time and patience. If you hear gears turning but don’t see anything moving. The gears that turn the fingers that push the ice out are stripped. This can happen due to sediment in the water building up on the ice tray and making it hard for the ice to release from the tray. You need a new I/M. The cutoff arm doesn’t move. The arm slips into a slot on the I/M head. Be sure it’s secure in the slot. DIRTY CONDENSER COILS cause Ice production to slow down. Dirty coils will cause major issues. The first symptom of dirty coils is slow ice production. This is due to a rise in temperature. I/M won’t advance if the temperature is above 9*F. Dirty coils restrict the air flow needed to cool the compressor and to remove the heat from the unit. The refrigerant lines are copper and heat will cause them to erode. The compressor will run hot and the next thing that happens is a no cool situation. A sealed system issue is expensive. Very expensive. Most failed compressors are due to dirty coils. You need to clean the coils at least once a year. If you have pets, clean more often. I hope this helps you determine the problem. If not, repost your problem as a NEW question and include the model number. Thanks!
I reset my filter after the icemaker wasn’t making any ice and readjusted temperature and now its making ice again
An actual Whirlpool certified repairman came out to check our icemaker. It turned out there was an air gap at the top that let in room air which allowed water to condense on the outside of the water supply line and run into the icemaker and freeze. Making a big lump of ice and stopping the ice dispenser auger. He pulled out the fridge, took a little cover off on top over the icemaker, caulked the gap(s), put it back in action and it’s been fine ever since. He said he’s seen this same issue several times. Apparently if they leave that gap at the factory then this icing up problem is likely to happen. His reports go back to Whirlpool so hopefully they’ve addressed the issue.
I see this issue on both refrigerators with ice makers and undercounter ice machines where there is some type of filtration system or water softener added to the home supply. Air will get into the lines. If you run your faucets until the air is removed, you still won’t remove the air that is in the tubing to the ice maker itself. It can take several days before that air is removed. You can manually cycle the ice maker if you know how too do this. The owners manual might have that information. You could try to run a clean cycle on the ice machine. That usually takes care of the problem. I don’t know if anyway to prevent it. When you remove a filter, air will get in the lines. Removing that air is just a matter of flushing it out, replacing the air with water.
Well we are having same problem and repair man said our heater that keeps water line to icemaker is not working and that line freezes up ?We have water to drink from our fridge . So now he is ordering new door because they can not access this part ? We have changed water filter ,got a new whole new ice maker component , still not working will work for a few days and then freeze up again ,we had a power failure for about 5 hours and icemaker started working again ,we even turned our freezer down for 5 hours and that helped but now even that does not work ,so now I am going to have to get a new door ,thank god it’s still under warrantee .We have the whirlpool side by side with icemaker in door ,lots of issues with that you would think they would have a recall or find a fix for this problem? Repairmen sure have a secure job ?Hope you resolve your problem
If you think it’s the infrared level light use your cell phone on camera mode and look at light. The camera will pick up the light so you know that part is working. I also contacted whirlpool. According to them the broken wires at the bottom are not a problem and the barley knew anything about it. I than proceeded to let my feeling known about that.
So I have been trouble shooting for almost a year. I replaced the ice mold last week and got a few dumps of ice and then it became a random dump every few days. Then nothing. I kept reading EVERY post I could!!! I thought maybe it was a bad optics board and then kept reading about how the optics board communicates with the door switch to tell it the door is closed make us or don’t make ice or allow water flow because the door is open. I had a hunch to test one more thing!!! I saw there are two door switches. Once controls the light to the freezer. The other one did nothing when I pushed it in. I assumed this one was the ice maker water control communicator. I taped it as flat as I could shut the door and waited…about ten minutes later there was and ice dump and water fill!!!! The ice cubes are smaller than before but I don’t care at this point. It beats those effing ice trays. So 45 min later another dump and fill! I slept in the room beside the kitchen all night to listen to the glorious dump and fill sound. All night baby!! Just heard another dump and fill! I wish I could call everyone having this issue and let them know to try this. I am leaving tape on the door switch forever if I have too. This site gave me every tip I tried and it took a ton of trial and error. I didn’t even have to replace the mold but who cares! Right now I have a half a bin full of ice! I will follow up in a few days if this does not continue to work. So thankful!!! I just hated to think about buying a perfectly good fridge and sending something to a landfill.
Sometimes it’s not just the filter being “clogged”. ( from my experience) it’s not pushed in well enough to active the system. Make sure you push it as far in as you can with your hands before letting the little door do the rest. I just got exhausted of not having ice and I messed with the filter and it seemed to do the trick.
Check to make sure you’re actually getting water to the ice maker and also some have a lever that’s over the ice maker shaped like a wire that needs to be pulled down hope this helps
I have a 4 year old Whirlpool fridge and yes, it stopped making ice. This started this past year. Something interesting to note, I have filled the hopper with ice from a bag. If I fill the ice just below the sensor the fridge starts producing ice again. Its almost like it is jealous of the ice I added so it feels the need to compensate. In all seriousness, the design is defiantly flawed.
I have a question - I have a filter on my house a the main feed line. When ever I shut off the water to replace the filter my ice maker stops working. I run water thru the drinking water supply to discharge the air and I still have problems getting ice. Question 1 - what should I do to get the ice maker working ? Question 2 - what is the correct procedure to prevent this problem next time I change my house filter ?
I had trouble with my Whirlpool ice maker that was on top. It wasn’t making any ice. It has an infrared sensor for the door. The light on the sensor was blinking. It would blink twice and pause. According to the code, it sounded like I would need a new circuit board for the sensor, which is about 250.00. I went and shut the breaker off to the refrigerator, because I didn’t want to pull it out, and waited about 5 minutes. I turned the breaker back on and the ice maker started working again.
@ladytech Have the Whirlpool people coming out this week. Same as others my ice maker won’t dispense ice. I noticed a small bit of frozen ice stuck in there and cleared that out. I can’t seem to figure out how to get a good look at the parts. We do have an RO but have had no issues in 2 years. Took out the filter to see if that was the problem. Any other suggestions before I pay $90 plus parts and labor? Thank you! Model WRX735SDHZ02
Check wiring harness at bottom of freezer
