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When machine arrives to spin cycle (last 7 minutes) machine is banging and making lots of noise
I’d bet the bearing. Tub Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the tub bearing might be worn out, this is a common problem. The bearing can be replaced. On some models the bearing is part of the outer tub and the outer tub will need to be replaced. Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer is making a loud noise the tub seal and bearing kit may need to be replaced. This is a common problem. sometimes the tub seal and bearing are part of the outer tub and the outer tub would then need to be replaced. Rear Drum with Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the rear drum with bearing might need to be replace. On this washer the bearing is not sold separately, the entire rear drum will have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. However, the problem is going to get worse very quickly and so either the drum and bearing will need to be replaced or the washing machine. Bearing If the washer is making a loud noise the bearing might be worn out. As bearings wear out from friction they gradually get worse and worse until they fail. In the meantime they get louder. If the noise primarily happens during the spin cycle the bearing is likely the problem. Drive Pulley If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it. Pulley If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley may be worn out. If the drive pulley is loose or wobbling it will need to be replaced U-Joint Kit If the washer is making a loud noise the U-Joint may have failed. This is the primary drive mechanism for the agitation motion in this washer. Although this is not a very difficult repair for a DIY’er with some experience, the part is expensive and so it may be worth considering a new washer. Motor Coupling If the washer is making a loud noise the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission. Clutch If the washer is making a loud noise in the spin cycle, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may become loud during spin or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced. Drive Belt If the washer is making a loud noise the drive belt might be defective. Over time the drive belt will dry out and start cracking, eventually a piece of the belt can break off resulting in a loud noise whenever the motor is running. Transmission If the washer is making a loud noise the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are many other more likely causes for noise from a washer. If the noise turns out to be caused by the transmission it may have to be replaced. Drain Pump If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it’s still noisy it will have to be replaced. Drive Motor If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it’s loud it will have to be replaced.
The one I have does not have a belt it is a direct drive. I thought the stator and rotor are bad. There is a loud squeak coming from the rotor. I didn’t see any play in the bearing.
Often this complaint is caused by a broken spider that connects the drive shaft to the drum itself. It is replaceable, but a pretty big job. If you can lift the drum up from inside more than a half inch or so, it will be the spider and not a bearing issue. The problem is that the corrosives in the detergent weakens the aluminum spider and on the spin cycle it fails. The spider, due to corrosion is not weldable in any permanent way. Always leave the door open a bit on front load washers so the inside drys out between loads. This will reduce the corrosive action. Letting it dry out will also keep bacteria from making the drum smell. Good luck
I have a top loader and it bangs against the frame when washing, but does fine when spinning. Please help!!!
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banging could it be the sring tubis laying off blance
My machine bangs every time its in the spin cycle please can anyone help me with this before i throw it out the door
I took the lower front panel off and taped down the safety switch on the right. When I ran the machine and got the knocking sound during the spin cycle, I pushed (with a stick of wood) on the outer tub (which does not spin), and the knock went away completely. I didn’t have to push hard. So I put a small spring from the top of the left front damper to an existing hole in the cabinet front, and that solved the problem. I presume that there is backlash (looseness) in one of the tub support somewhere, and the spring keeps the backlash from banging. Been working fine now for a month.
My mechine as devloped a loud noise from the inside the tub it sounds like a plastic cap thats being thrown around the inside tub whats the chance some large foreign object is in theis.and if so how do i get it out ..
My washer was resonating the drain hose during the spin cycle. It was vibrating against the inside wall of the washer causing a really loud repetitive noise. I opened the back panel and duct taped the hose to the inside wall and it fixed the problem.
I have the loud sound when spinning. My Kenmore is only 5 years old, very upsetting! I had a repairman come out, said it was a bearing, cheaper to buy a new machine! Cost me his service call, $70! I’m literally SICK about this having to purchase a new machine.
The fix that I described in my post above, dated 10/14/18 is still working perfectly after 2-1/2 years. Our Kenmore , purchased 18 years ago in 2003, is still purring like a kitten, just like it did when it was new. It made a loud rapping sound during spin cycles for 10 years before I figured out how to fix it, so no permanent damage was done. Note that I also separately “leveled” my machine, but that term is a gross misnomer, at best. What is really important is making sure that all four legs are pressing on the ground with about the same force. I call that “balancing” the machine. Here’s how to do that, with the machine not running: (1) Stand in front of the machine and try to rock it back and forth by pushing it digonally, say from the left front leg towards the back left leg. Note the amount of rocking you get. (2) Perform the same test on the other diagonal direction. If there’s more rocking in this direction, lengthen the front left leg adjustment a turn or so. If there’s more rocking in Step(1) lenghten the right front leg. (3) Repeat Steps (1) and (2) until the machine rocks equally no matter which diagonal direction is pushed. Done! (4) Now run a spin cycle, and the machine should be much more stable. Note that I did not place a level on the machine to make sure it was “level”. If it looks grossly tilted you can correct that if you want, but be sure to run Steps () to (4) afterwards. That’s the key to a smooth running machine. Note that floors, themselves are not always flat. If the machine walks a bit to a new location, you may have to repeat the balancing process.
